Welcome, Won’t You Come Inside

A diary of my trip to Spain to see Metallica on the M72 World Tour in July, 2024.

It was a long wait, but it was finally time to get back on the road to see the Metallica M72 World Tour in a new city. This time, it was Madrid. I had never been to Spain before, and there was no better excuse to go than to see two Metallica shows.

Things have been hectic for me since the Phoenix stop on the M72 Tour in 2023. I found out prior to the trip that I had busted up my rotator cuff in my dominant arm and that it would not heal without elective surgery. I was told the recovery would be difficult and that I would have no or limited use of my arm for a while.

I had to put off the operation until after the Phoenix trip, but it needed to be soon thereafter so I would be ready to rock for the Madrid trip in 2024. I had them cut me up in October and started physical therapy a few weeks later. That plan worked out very nicely. I was semi-functional a few months later, and I graduated from therapy a week before the Madrid trip.

While I was dealing with the injury, I got started on a construction project at my house because I like making things complicated and difficult for myself. My entire backyard needed to be replaced and I wanted to get it done for 2024. Everything went relatively smoothly with the project, but dealing with the contractor and making design decisions was very time intensive.

Between the shoulder rehab, the backyard project, and holding down a full-time job, I had a lot on my mind. Therefore, I did not do as much planning for the Madrid trip as I had done for Paris, Montreal, and Phoenix last year. But my number one travel companion on the tour, Susan, took care of the basic outline of the trip for us. We were going to forego the motorcycle rental this time, and instead spend a few days getting crazy in Ibiza after the Metallica shows were done in Madrid. I was happy with that plan and showed up in Madrid fired up and ready to watch The Greatest Band of All Time from the Snake Pit!

Metallica wrapped up the North American leg of the 2023 tour in Detroit in November and did a one-off show in Saudi Arabia in December. They resumed the 2024 tour in May in Munich for two nights. They played 16 songs each night as they had done on all the other dates in 2023. At the next show in Milan, they only played 15 songs. Each night after that, they stuck to the new 15 song format. The reasons are not publicly known why the shows got shorter, but I guess shrinkflation in this economy is to blame.

I was a bit bummed that I would get to see two fewer songs than I had expected in Madrid, and I had done no research or real planning for the trip. But Susan and I got on the redeye from Newark on July 10, and we landed in Madrid the next day on time.

July 11, 2024

Things were off to a good start; the first leg of travel got us to Madrid without issue. But the red-eye and the jetlag hit me hard, and I started the trip exhausted.

We hopped a cab from the airport, and I noticed right away that the terrain indicated we were going to be in a warmer climate. There was also a lot of graffiti on the highway. I noticed the same thing when we got to Paris, I guess it is a European thing.

We made it to Hotel Francisco I and Susan had to stop to do some work. She was under an unfortunately timed work deadline for most of the vacation, so she had to do a few hours of work every day. I went for a walk nearby to keep busy until she was done.

I was not sure what I was looking at, but realized right away that I was in an historic section of town. It was a neighborhood that was clearly much older than anywhere I have been in America. My phone told me that I was in a town square called Plaza Mayor.

Plaza Mayor

I was hungry so I sat down and ordered my favorite Spanish delicacy, Jamón Ibérico.

Jamón Ibérico

Susan told me she was ready to go so we met up and walked around the area together. We were in an interesting neighborhood that was a seemingly endless maze of old buildings with cool shops and restaurants. We would enjoy walking around town for the rest of our stay.

I disagree

We headed out to our first planned destination, Museo Nacional del Prado. Prado is an historic art museum in Madrid known for its European art. It features 48 pieces by Diego Velázquez.

I got yelled at for trying to take pictures (there did not appear to be a sign saying it was not allowed). I thought that the collections were interesting, especially given how old some of them were. The overwhelming majority of them were inspired by religion.

We went to dinner at Vi Cool and finished the night with drinks at a bar in the basement of Caluana. The food was underwhelming at the restaurant, and the neighborhood seemed to close early. That was fine with me, I was wiped out by then and wanted to get to bed to get into the time zone.

July 12, 2024

Today was going to be a big day! Susan had to work in the morning, so I walked to the Metallica pop-up store. I only bought four T-shirts this time. I returned to the hotel, and we walked to Plaza Mayor for lunch. We ordered paella for the first time on the trip.

We walked to Real Jardín Botánico (a botanical garden) and went inside for a visit. I think we were there a little late in the season because not much was in bloom. I was jealous of their vegetable garden; they are better at growing tomatoes than I am. They had some good-looking grape vines and fig trees, too.

Grapevines
I think this guy was a king or something

Everything we did that day was nice, but it was time for the big event. We hopped on the Metro, asked for directions, and headed towards Estadio Cívitas Metropolitano for the first of two Metallica concerts of the weekend!

The first order of business was for me to figure out how to pick up our Snake Pit passes. The instructions I got in Spanish were not very helpful even after I translated them to English. But after walking back and forth and asking for help outside the stadium, I found the window that had our magic wristbands, and we went inside.

The soccer stadium in Madrid that would be Metallica’s home for the weekend
The setup was huge, but we were going to be in the middle of the stage!

We descended the stairs from the first level and headed to the Snake Pit entrance. I dreamed about that moment ever since I bought the tickets in November 2022. We flashed our wristbands, and they waved us in.

I didn’t know what to do with myself once I got inside. This was going to be much different than jockeying for position at a regular general admission concert. Instead of just trying to get as close to the stage as possible, we were going to be literally surrounded by Metallica inside a donut-shaped stage. I noticed that one of the lower portions of the stage to my left was not terribly crowded and we walked up to it.

Our initial spot in the Snake Pit

The Architects had just started playing when we walked in. They are a boring and uninspiring band and trudged their way through a desultory set. At least we were able to conserve energy for Metallica.

The wait in between sets seemed to last a lifetime. But when “It’s a Long Way to the Top (If You Wanna Rock ‘N’ Roll)” blasted throughout the stadium, I was fired up! Metallica hit the stage and Lars Ulrich counted off the first song. Before he was even done, I recognized it and shouted, “Creeping Death!”. It was on!

Lars was playing drums to our right. Before I knew it, James Hetfield was singing and playing guitar right in front of us! I was so close that I could look right up his nostrils!

We were that close to James!

Robert Trujillo and Kirk Hammett crossed in front of us with regularity. We were literally surrounded by Metallica. The third song of the night was the deep cut “Cyanide” that I had not seen live in years. I could barely keep up with everything happening around me. After “King Nothing” finished they switched to the second drum kit, this time to our left.

This was the point in the show that required some decision making based on our prior M72 World Tour experience. There were always four drum kits used throughout the show, each one placed about 90 degrees apart from the other and popped up in a counterclockwise direction. The band tended to stick to the drumkit, and we wanted to be as close to them as possible.

I was a bit reticent as to what to do. Should we stick to our spot close to the stage and wait for them to wander close to us? Or should we follow the drums? Susan told me that I needed to man-up and take the risk of losing our spot so we could follow the drums. I needed that bit of encouragement.

While “Shadows Follow” was playing, we walked through the crowd and found a spot near where we thought the drum kit would pop up. The crowd let us through because they were looking in the other direction towards James and Lars.

This turned out to be a fortuitous decision. We were standing right by the inside of the wall where the third drum kit popped out. The band ripped into the instrumental “Orion”, and we were right there to watch all four of them jam! We were so close that Lars’ drums overpowered the sound from the main PA system.

I don’t recall ever being this close to the whole band

The rest of the show was pure pleasure. We made the move to the fourth drum kit with four songs to go. The band blasted through “Battery”, “Fuel”, “Seek and Destroy”, and “Master of Puppets” to finish the night off. I was amazed and spent. This was one of the best Metallica experiences of my life.

Susan was right, we needed to get close to Lars!
Lars playing through beach balls

July 13, 2024

I felt like I was still on a high from the amazing Metallica show from the previous night. The weather was beautiful, so I wanted to get out and play tourist for the day. Susan found a highly rated brunch spot called EatMyTrip so we stopped there for something to eat.

We went for a somewhat aimless walk to see what we could find. We wandered into the Real Basilica de San Francisco el Grande. As the name would imply, it was a big old church. It was almost a combination of an art museum and a church with hallways lined with old paintings.

Long, painting-lined hallway at the church
One of the many ornate paintings in the church

We concluded that we had seen enough ancient religious art for the trip, so we moved on. Susan read about the Museo de San Isidro, so we made that our next stop. It was a cool museum, and we learned a lot about the history of Madrid.

Apparently, Madrid is an archeologically significant city and fossils found there told the story of the evolution of many species, including humans. The museum had a timeline of Madrid’s history from the neanderthals to the beginnings of society, to the current day.

There were no “good old days” in Madrid. Throughout its history, there were bloody religious conflicts, invasions by rival empires, and civil wars. I was amazed that the city was still standing after reading all about it.

We then walked to the nearby Mercado del la Cebada; a two-floor space filled with an eclectic mix of shops. The produce looked so good that I bought myself an heirloom tomato to eat later. We sampled some tapas there, too.

They cut your ham in front of you

After all of that exploring, it was time to find a rooftop bar for a few afternoon cocktails. Instagram randomly suggested that I visit El Cielo de Chicote at the top of Hotel Montera Madrid, so off we went.

That’s apple foam on top

The bar had a good vibe, great views, and even better drinks. We weren’t in many tall buildings in Madrid, it was neat to see what the city looks like from on high. We stayed for a few drinks before heading back to the hotel to get gussied up for the evening.

View of the city from the rooftop

Susan wanted to see a traditional flamenco show while we were in Spain, so she got us tickets for the Saturday show at Teatro Flamenco Madrid. We arrived at the theater just as the show was about to start.

The performers were three dancers (two female, one male), a guitar player, and two male singers. The show was a unique combination of song, percussion, and dance. The three dancers worked in tandem, and each took a solo. They were all very athletic and very expressive. The singers kept the beat by clapping and stomping their feet. The guitar player was no James Hetfield, but he did a serviceable job.

This was quite the departure from Metallica the previous night, but I thought it was a great cultural experience. It felt like there was a lot of history behind the style of flamenco, and there was a lot of effort put into the show itself.

We capped off the day with dinner at ZARA and a few drinks at a nearby bar. It felt like we checked a lot of the tourist boxes off, and I slept like a rock when we called it a night.

July 14, 2024

Since I was not going to rent a Harley for this stop on the M72 World Tour, I decided we should do a bike tour of Madrid because that’s like the next best thing. Susan is an avid bicyclist, so she was a willing participant.

The tour guide was very knowledgeable, and the tour moved very quickly. I would be hard pressed to remember every detail of what he told us. He explained a lot about the history of the area that we had walked through during our stay.

We rode through En Retiro Park and my biggest takeaway was the statue of the archangel that was exactly 666 meters above sea level. What a perfect landmark to see during the day before we were going to see Metallica.

A statue of Satan exactly 666 meters above sea level

He took us through town, and we made a stop at the Royal Palace of Madrid where we stopped for a few pictures and a quick history lesson of the opulence of the Spanish Monarchy.

The royal palace

He took us through Plaza Mayor and told us that it was a black market used by merchants to dodge taxes until the king found out what was going on. They also used it for public executions which the locals found entertaining. Things were certainly different in those days.

The bike trip wrapped up and we needed something to eat so we wen to the Mercado de San Miguel. This place was very cool, it had an array of tapas selections. We sampled a bite at several tapas stands and that was good enough for lunch.

I’ll take one of everything, please
I’ll take one of each of these, too.

We went back to the hotel to relax a bit before it was time to head back to the stadium for our second Metallica concert from Snake Pit. We knew the metro lines to take this time so getting there was a breeze.

The walk into the Snake Pit was another surreal experience. I still could not believe I got so lucky when buying tickets. We started off in the same spot we were in at the previous show. Five Finger Death Punch took the stage. They are the most okay opening band Metallica used on the tour. They certainly were livelier than The Architects.

Ivan Moody from Five Finger Death Punch

The crowd looked like it was a bit thinner than it was on Friday. I attributed that to the fact that Spain was scheduled to play England in the Euro Cup finals at the same time Metallica would take the stage. I guess Metallica’s management did not take that possibility into consideration when they planned the tour in 2022.

As usual, I was impatient for Metallica to come on and I could not stand still. AC/DC hit the speakers after what seemed like forever, and I was ready to go again. The band took the stage and Lars pounded on the drums for the unmistakable intro to “Whiplash”. The crowd went berserk, and James had all of us in the palm of his hand when he started singing. The band segued quickly into “For Whom the Bell Tolls” and kept the fierce energy in the stadium at fever pitch.

We decided to use the same strategy from Friday night. One song before the third drumkit was going to emerge, we found a spot near where it was going to pop up. Just like on Friday, we got right underneath the band for their instrumental number. This time it was “The Call of Ktulu”.  We stayed until halfway through “Inamorata” and got as close to the fourth drumkit as we could get.

Right behind The Greatest Drummer of All Time
The best way to experience Metallica is from very close!

The finish was very strong with a deep cut of “Fight Fire With Fire” and dazzling pyrotechnics during “Moth Into Flame”.

The crowd randomly started cheering during “One”. I looked at my phone to see that Spain had just scored the go-ahead goal against England in stoppage time. They were going to win the Euro Cup.

Finally, the beach balls dropped from the lighting towers and the Metallica finished the night off with “Enter Sandman”.

It was tough for me to accept that it was over. I had these Snake Pit tickets for a year and a half. They were going to be my only shows on the M72 World Tour from within the stage, so I was looking forward to Madrid the most out of any cities I visited.

But we still had plenty of vacation ahead of us. We took the cramped Metro back to our hotel so we could get up early and catch our flight to Ibiza.

July 15, 2024

We had an early flight to Ibiza. We got to the hotel lobby and asked for a cab before the sun came up. People were still celebrating the Spanish Euro Cup win in the streets. I slept through the entire flight.

We checked into our hotel and Susan overheard an American couple say that they were there to see David Guetta perform that day. She looked it up and saw that he was playing at a club called Ushuaïa, and Afrojack was one of the opening acts. I figured that since I had brought her to seven Metallica concerts in the last year, the least I could do was let her pick our next line of entertainment. Suddenly, we had a plan for the evening.

Our hotel was right on the beach, and it had a pool with a nice view. After all the rushing around in Madrid, this was a nice change of pace.

The pool at our hotel

After a relaxing poolside afternoon, we got dressed for the evening and went to Ushuaïa. The openers went on at five, so we arrived early to check out the club. It was a spread-out outdoor venue with a pool in the middle. We walked around a bit, bought some insanely expensive drinks, and found a spot in front of the guardrail in time to get a good view of Afrojack.

Afrojack

The crowd started to get thicker by the stage, so we dipped out towards the back to get some space. David Guetta hit the stage, so we decided to walk back to our original spot. It was much harder to get there this time now that the crowd was at capacity, so we had to utilize our Metallica Snake Pit skills to force our way to a good spot.

The venue is very close to the airport at Ibiza and planes buzzed the stage all night. The crowd would cheer for each one as if they were part of the show.

I’ll hand it to these DJ’s. They put on an elaborate show. Dance music is not my cup of tea, but they incorporated plenty of pyrotechnics, on-stage dancers, and even an aerialist suspended by helium balloons into the show.

David Guetta is somewhere behind all those flames
An aerialist suspended by helium balloons

This show was a big departure from Metallica the previous evening, but we still had a lot of fun. We had a few drinks and grabbed some fast food in the area and called it a night.

July 16, 2024

Once again, we were in search of relaxation in Ibiza, so we headed south to Experimental Beach. It was a restaurant on the beach outside of town. We grabbed a few day beds and ordered some cocktails. The view was nice, but the beach was full of rocks so getting in and out of the water was an ordeal.

Susan translated that sign for me: “Don’t fall ass-first down the cliff”

We stayed for lunch and through the afternoon before returning to the hotel to change for the evening. This time we went north for dinner at The Standard Ibiza. I spent a lot of time at The Standard High Line in Manhattan, so it was cool to visit one in another country.

The Standard is in a lively section of town near a port. There were a lot of restaurants, bars, and shops nearby. We walked through it before and after dinner.

The view from the top of The Standard Hotel

We had a big day planned for the next day so we decided against an all-night clubbing trip so we could get up and go hard the next morning.

July 17, 2024

We wanted to get on the water while we were in town, so we decided to rent jet skis and go on an hour-long tour. The rental company was a short walk from our hotel, and they took us out right away.

The first two times I rented a jet ski, I struggled to control them. I assumed either I was unlucky with faulty equipment, or that I had picked up some habits from the motorcycle that made it difficult for me to operate a jet ski.

Our guide was in a boat ahead of us. He instructed us to sail in a straight line and to follow him. He took off full throttle and we followed behind him. Much to my delight, I was able to control the jet ski this time and had no issues following him. I guess it wasn’t my fault the first two times.

The ride was wild, our guide never slowed down the whole time, and the waves were very choppy. I used my newly found confidence to keep pace. It was a fast and rough ride, and I really enjoyed it. If I wasn’t going to rent a Harley on this Metallica trip, a jet ski would have to do.

We walked along the beach and found a restaurant that had day beds for rent. We passed the time there on the beach, ordering cocktails, swimming in the sea, and keeping a close eye on the bag that our passports were in.

Cheers!

After a beautiful day on the Mediterranean Sea, we headed to dinner in the same neighborhood as The Standard. While we waited for our table, we bought tickets for Hï Ibiza. According to multiple sources, Hï Ibiza is the best club in the world.

Best dressed guy at the Best Club in the World

Hï opened at 11:30 and we arrived around that time to familiarize ourselves with the venue. There was one main room, and a few others with different DJ’s playing. We hung out in the smaller rooms at first, and then went into the main room to watch Fisher play at about 2 AM. The crowd at Hï packed the main room like a can of sardines. We barely made it inside, but we were fine standing towards the back.

Partying like we did in Ibiza was a very cool experience. Susan and I enjoy the nightlife near home in New York City and the Jersey Shore. The scene in Ibiza is next level. These people party all day and all night all over the city.

We had to call it at 4 AM and couldn’t stay until they closed at 6 AM, we had a flight to catch back to Madrid the next day.

July 18, 2024

On the flight back, Susan was seated next to some dude wearing a Red Sox jersey and a Yankees hat without a hint of irony. That was going to be my last impression of the Ibiza crowd.

We returned to Madrid completely exhausted. Susan had her mother fly in and the two of them were going to stay in Spain while I returned to New Jersey the next day.

We went to Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía. This museum was much more modern than the rest we had seen in Madrid. Instead of ancient religious art, this museum had works by Picasso and Dali. My favorite was the Dali’s Face of the Great Masturbator.

Dali’s “Great Masturbator”. That’s what I call art.

When we were done at the Museum, we checked with a local tourism guide and realized that we had done eight of the top ten things to do in Madrid. All three of us were exhausted from our various travels so we settled in for one final meal in Madrid before turning in for the evening.

July 19, 2024

I headed back to the airport by myself for my flight back to New Jersey. I had plans for dinner at the Jersey Shore with friends that evening. When I was waiting on the passport control line, I saw an alert on my phone that all United flights globally were grounded. There was a problem with Windows computers all over the world because of an issue with Crowdstrike software. It caused my flight to have a four-hour delay taking off. I was going to miss dinner at the Jersey Shore!

I was completely spent at the end of this trip. Madrid was not a city I likely would have visited if it was not for Metallica. But I immersed myself in its culture, history, nightlife, and cuisine. I felt like I used every day to its fullest. Not only did I have one of the best Metallica experiences of my life from the Snake Pit (twice!) but Spain far exceeded my expectations. I am going to need to return in the not-too-distant future.

In the meantime, I had one more city to visit on the M72 World Tour. In two weeks, I was going to make the trip to Boston to see them in Foxborough, MA.

My M72 World Tour Itinerary

Show #DateVenueCity
Complete15/17/2023Stade de FranceSaint-Denis, France
25/19/2023Stade de FranceSaint-Denis, France
38/4/2023MetLife StadiumEast Rutherford, NJ
48/6/2023MetLife StadiumEast Rutherford, NJ
58/11/2023Stade OlympiqueMontreal, Quebec, Canada
68/13/2023Stade OlympiqueMontreal, Quebec, Canada
79/1/2023State Farm StadiumGlendale, AZ
87/12/2024Estadio Cívitas MetropolitanoMadrid, Spain
97/14/2024Estadio Cívitas MetropolitanoMadrid, Spain
Upcoming108/2/2024Gilette StadiumFoxborough, MA
118/4/2024Gilette StadiumFoxborough, MA

My lifetime Metallica concert history

Show #ShowDateVenueDescriptionCityTour/Event
14/8/1992Brendan Byrne ArenaEast Rutherford, NJWherever We May Roam
27/17/1998Giants StadiumEast Rutherford, NJPoor Retouring Me
311/24/1998Roseland BallroomNew York, NYGarage Barrage
411/23/1999Madison Square GardenNew York, NYS&M
57/20/2000Giants StadiumEast Rutherford, NJSummer Sanitarium
67/8/2003Giants StadiumEast Rutherford, NJSummer Sanitarium 2003
74/20/2004Nassau ColiseumUniondale, NYMadly In Anger With The World
810/22/2004Continental Airlines ArenaEast Rutherford, NJMadly In Anger With The World
91/17/2009Wachovia CenterPhiladelphia, PAWorld Magnetic
101/31/2009Prudential CenterNewark, NJWorld Magnetic
112/1/2009Prudential CenterNewark, NJWorld Magnetic
1211/14/2009Madison Square GardenNew York, NYWorld Magnetic
1311/15/2009Madison Square GardenNew York, NYWorld Magnetic
149/14/2011Yankee StadiumNew York, NYThe Big 4
156/23/2012Bader FieldAtlantic City, NJOrion Music + More
166/24/2012Bader FieldAtlantic City, NJOrion Music + More
175/12/2017Lincoln Financial FieldPhiladelphia, PAWorldwired
185/14/2017MetLife StadiumEast Rutherford, NJWorldwired
195/17/2017The New Coliseum Presented by NYCVUniondale, NYWorldwired
207/19/2017Parc Jean-DrapeauMontreal, QCWorldwired
2110/20/2018Bryce Jordan CenterState College, PAWorldwired
2210/25/2018Wells Fargo CenterPhiladelphia, PAWorldwired
239/6/2019Chase CenterSan Francisco, CAS&M2
249/24/2021Highland Festival Grounds at KY Expo CenterLouisville, KYLouder Than Life
259/25/2021Highland Festival Grounds at KY Expo CenterLouisville, KYLouder Than Life
265/29/2022Harvard Athletic ComplexBoston, MABoston Calling
278/11/2022Highmark StadiumBuffalo, NY(none)
285/17/2023Stade de FranceSaint-Dennis, FRM72 World Tour
295/19/2023Stade de FranceSaint-Dennis, FRM72 World Tour
308/4/2023MetLife StadiumEast Rutherford, NJM72 World Tour
318/6/2023MetLife StadiumEast Rutherford, NJM72 World Tour
328/11/2023Stade OlympiqueMontreal, QCM72 World Tour
338/13/2023Stade OlympiqueMontreal, QCM72 World Tour
349/1/2023State Farm StadiumGlendale, AZM72 World Tour
357/12/2024Estadio Cívitas MetropolitanoMadrid, ESM72 World Tour
367/14/2024Estadio Cívitas MetropolitanoMadrid, ESM72 World Tour

Link to YouTube playlist of all official Metallica concert videos I have been present for.

Metallica songs I have seen performed on the M72 World Tour

SongTimes Seen
Creeping Death5
Fuel5
Harvester Of Sorrow5
Lux Æterna5
Nothing Else Matters5
Orion5
Sad But True5
Seek and Destroy5
72 Seasons4
Battery4
Enter Sandman4
Fade To Black4
For Whom The Bell Tolls4
If Darkness Had A Son4
King Nothing4
Master of Puppets4
Moth Into Flame4
One4
Ride The Lightning4
Shadows Follow4
The Call of Ktulu4
The Day That Never Comes4
Too Far Gone?4
Welcome Home (Sanitarium)4
Wherever I May Roam4
Holier Than Thou3
The Unforgiven3
Whiplash3
Whiskey In The Jar3
You Must Burn!3
Blackened2
Cyanide2
Hardwired2
The Memory Remains2
Dirty Window1
Fight Fire With Fire1
I Disappear1
Inamorata1
Leper Messiah1
No Leaf Clover1
Screaming Suicide1
Sleepwalk My Life Away1
Until It Sleeps1
Unique:43
Total:140

All Metallica songs I have seen performed live

SongTimes Seen
Nothing Else Matters30
Enter Sandman29
One29
Sad But True29
Master of Puppets28
Seek and Destroy26
For Whom The Bell Tolls23
Creeping Death21
Fade To Black19
Fuel17
Wherever I May Roam15
Battery14
Blackened13
Moth Into Flame13
Ride The Lightning12
The Unforgiven12
Harvester Of Sorrow11
The Day That Never Comes11
Welcome Home (Sanitarium)11
Whiplash11
The Memory Remains10
Hardwired9
Holier Than Thou9
Cyanide8
Fight Fire With Fire7
King Nothing7
Now That We’re Dead7
The Call of Ktulu7
Whiskey In The Jar7
Atlas, Rise!6
No Leaf Clover6
Orion6
The Four Horsemen6
All Nightmare Long5
Broken, Beat And Scarred5
Halo On Fire5
Lux Æterna5
Of Wolf and Man5
That Was Just Your Life5
The End Of The Line5
72 Seasons4
Breadfan4
Hit The Lights4
If Darkness Had A Son4
Last Caress4
Shadows Follow4
Too Far Gone?4
I Disappear3
St. Anger3
The God That Failed3
Through the Never3
Turn The Page3
Until It Sleeps3
You Must Burn!3
Am I Evil?2
Bleeding Me2
Blitzkrieg2
Die, Die My Darling2
Dirty Window2
Don’t Tread On Me2
Frantic2
Last Caress/Green Hell2
Motorbreath2
My Friend Of Misery2
Overkill2
The Outlaw Torn2
The Shortest Straw2
The Struggle Within2
The Thing That Should Not Be2
Trapped Under Ice2
– Human1
(Anesthesia) – Pulling Teeth1
…And Justice For All1
All Within My Hands1
Confusion1
Damage Inc.1
Devil’s Dance1
Disposable Heroes1
Dyers Eve1
Escape1
Hell And Back1
Helpless1
Hero of the Day1
Inamorata1
Iron Foundry1
Jump In The Fire1
Justice Medley1
Killing Time1
Last Caress/So What/Die, Die My Darling1
Leper Messiah1
Low Man’s Lyric1
Mastertarium1
Mercyful Fate1
Metal Militia1
My Apocalypse1
No Remorse1
Phantom Lord1
Sabbra Cadabra1
Screaming Suicide1
Sleepwalk My Life Away1
Small Hours1
So What1
Spit Out The Bone1
Stone Cold Crazy1
The Ecstasy of Gold1
The Judas Kiss1
The Prince1
The Unforgiven III1
The Wait1
Unique:109
Total:624

Full Speed or Nothing

My New Jersey Transit bus was predictably late, and when it arrived it was standing room only. The Lincoln Tunnel was jammed on the way to the Port Authority Bus Terminal. I dodged a few homeless people on my way to the subway platform and hopped the C Train to the Fulton Street Station. A quick walk from there to my Financial District office in Downtown Manhattan and my Monday morning slog to work was complete. I settled into my desk, said hi to everyone, put my phone on the charger and got to work. I am a software developer, and I had a lot of coding to do that day.

There was nothing out of the ordinary on the agenda for the day. The only unusual circumstance was that my boss was visiting that day from our Miami office. He and I had placed a sandwich bet on a Dolphins/Jets NFL game about a month prior, and my Jets won it for me. We decided we would settle the bet at the recently reopened Lenwich in Hanover Square that day. I knew he would be extra annoyed because he really hates the Jets. That was going to make my sandwich even more enjoyable.

About two hours into my day, I paused what I was doing to look at my phone. There was a text message from Metallica (I had previously subscribed to text alerts from their website):

Wait, what? A new Metallica song? How come I hadn’t heard anything about this? What is happening? I’m confused! Wait, how to you pronounce the title? Is “Æ” even in the alphabet?

With alacrity I put my PC headset on and navigated to YouTube. At the top of Metallica’s channel was a link to the new video. I set the volume to maximum and clicked play. Metallica had unleashed a thrash metal instant classic. On first listen, it sounded like a grown-up sequel to “Hit the Lights” from their first album “Kill ‘Em All” crossed with Motörhead’s “Overkill”. I was instantly amazed and fired up.

My mind was racing as I tried to take it in. I needed to know more so I navigated to metallica.com in search of answers. The home page was remade since my last visit.

Wait, what? I just found out about the new Metallica song. But what’s this about a new Metallica album? And what is this about a new Metallica Tour?

I clicked on the tour link and saw the full itinerary. They laid out their touring schedule for 2023 and 2024 all at once. They announced they would play two nights in each city and both set lists would be unique. There were cities all over North America and Europe on the list. One city jumped out at me. It would be a chance to finally make a dream come true.


Metallica is my favorite band, which probably goes without saying. I am imbued with the following beliefs:

  • Metallica is the greatest band of all time.
  • James Hetfield is the greatest singer of all time.
  • James Hetfield is the greatest guitarist of all time.
  • Lars Ulrich is the greatest drummer of all time.
  • Kirk Hammett is the second greatest guitarist of all time.
  • Robert Trujillo is the second greatest bassist of all time.

If you were to challenge me on any of those points, I would not even bother to argue. I would just think that you are stupid, and it would not be worth my time.

In 2018 I wrote a story about a twenty year stretch of my life as a Metallica fan against a backdrop of technological changes in the world over that time. I detailed the twenty-two Metallica concerts I had seen up to that point. But Metallica has been on the move since then and I added five more concerts to my total since 2019.

We flew to San Fransisco in September 2019 for S&M 2, which was the first event at the newly built Chase Center. After a pause in touring for the COVID-19 restrictions, the band hit the road again in 2021. We flew to Louisville in September for the Louder Than Life Festival, and Metallica headlined two of the four nights, playing a distinct set each time. In 2022 I went to the two closest Metallica shows to New Jersey, Boston in May, and Buffalo in August.

Each show was a unique experience, and they were all a reminder about how important it is for me to continue to see Metallica play live at every opportunity I get. They have significantly cut back on their touring schedule, and they are not getting any younger. But they look and sound better than they ever have.

I have been to 27 Metallica concerts over a 30 year stretch from 1992 to 2022. But prior to 2019, I had never traveled very far to see them. I was content to see them play in cities I could drive to from New Jersey, the furthest one being Montreal.

I was never much of a traveler. As a child, our family vacations consisted of driving south for two hours for a two week stay in Long Beach Island. I loved it. I never was jealous of other kids who flew to other places like Disney World. The Jersey shore had everything I needed from a vacation spot, and it was cheap and easy to get there.

Not much changed as an adult. I would rent out houses with friends in various spots between Belmar and Point Pleasant Beach and spend weekends there in the summer. The stories I could write about the things I have seen and done at the Jersey Shore could fill a book. If I could even remember them all!

I also purchased a Harley Davidson in 1999, and I have owned one ever since. When I was not at the shore in the summer, I would be on the bike exploring routes and destinations all along the Appalachian Mountains, from Georgia to Quebec.

Typically, those two activities would satisfy my need to get out of the house and go somewhere. But along the way, I did pick up a nagging desire to mix things up occasionally.

For a long stretch, in the 2000’s, Metallica would only tour in Europe. They would send me an e-mail with my fan club pre-sale code for tickets every time they announced a tour. It started to get annoying that I had priority access for tickets to shows on another continent, but there were none here in America. I started to think to myself that maybe I should go see them play in France one summer and make a vacation out of it. Maybe even rent a Harley and ride through the countryside for a day or two.

I was never able to put it together. At first, I didn’t make it a priority. Then, I had run myself into financial trouble by gut renovating a house. The project went off the rails and I was flat broke for four years. I finished the project in 2019 and sold my condo and I finally had both the time and the money to try to make the “Metallica in France” dream come true. Then a plague swept the earth and shut down all live concerts!

In 2021 I tried to go to one of their European shows, but due to a snafu with ticketing, and rising flight prices, I failed to put it together yet again. But that turned out to not be much of a problem when I saw the itinerary for the “M72 World Tour” for 2023 and 2024. Now was going to be my chance to live out that dream.


Within a few minutes of watching the Lux Æterna video, my phone lit up like a Christmas tree. Friends were texting back and forth about the news and the potential tour dates. I was so distracted that I had to come clean and explain to my boss that Metallica had just announced a tour and I immediately needed to plan. The pre-sale was going to start in less than 48 hours so some quick decisions would have to be made.

This was a tour announcement like none other. Metallica will play two shows in each city with no song repeats. The stage is in the center of each stadium. It will have a donut hole-shaped “Snake Pit” in the middle of the stage offering a 360 view. The tour itinerary covers North America and Europe from April 2023 to September 2024. The first round of tickets would be sold in two-night passes for each city that cannot be broken up.

The second city on the tour is Paris and that jumped out at me immediately! This could be my chance to finally make this dream a reality. The date is not great, it will require me to reschedule a camping trip that I traditionally host that weekend, but sacrifices would have to be made.

After a few more stops in Europe, the tour heads to North America and the first stop is right here in North Jersey at MetLife Stadium. If Metallica plays New Jersey, I go every time.

The following weekend, they head due north to Montreal. Motorcycle and Metallica trip!

The next city that looked good to me is Phoenix on Labor Day weekend. I just visited the area in 2021 for the NASCAR Cup Series championship race and felt like my trip was too short for some of the things I wanted to do. I also have family in the area and they are fun to spend time with. That would be four cities in 2023, a pretty good number to cap it.

Metallica is going to take a well-deserved break starting in November 2023 and they hit the road again in June 2024, beginning again in Europe. Of the five European cities they will travel to in 2024, the one that looked the most interesting to me is Madrid in July. Why limit my dream to see Metallica in Europe to just Paris when I can also go to Madrid?

The next city on the tour is back in America in Foxborough, MA. That will be another motorcycle and Metallica trip for me, not to mention I have a college friend in the area that I enjoy visiting.

Now that I had an itinerary planned out, it was time to start planning the logistics of buying tickets. To steal a quote from a crappy movie I once saw, I’d rather stick a flaming hot skewer in my eye than deal with Ticketmaster. The company was recently in the news for botching a Taylor Smith tour pre-sale. I was surprised so many people were unaware how horrible the Ticketmaster experience was until then. They have been screwing me since they went online in the late 1990’s.

But I still have my priceless Legacy Fan Club Membership at my disposal, so I was counting on that to help me get tickets for every show. I was a paid member of the Metclub for about 17 years, and in 2016 Metallica obsoleted the paid tier, but promised all paid members that they would be grandfathered in to future pre-sales before the rest of the general pubic. Since then they have kept that promise. Today, no amount of money could buy you a Legacy Fan Club Membership from their website. Take that, Taylor Swift fans!

I collected my unique pre-sale code and got to work. I asked around to see what friends wanted to go to what shows. I was able to buy four passes for each city (but only two Snake Pit passes if I was lucky enough to pull them). There were too many of us going to the New Jersey show for me to help everyone who was going. But between us all we had enough pre-sale codes to accommodate everyone. For the rest of the shows, I had enough of my own ticket allocations to cover those that wanted to join me.

I read through the fine print in the ticket sale FAQ. The Legacy Fan Club pre-sales all start at 9 AM local time. That meant that for the France and Madrid shows, I would have to be online at 3 AM local time. Great.

The East Rutherford, Montreal, and Foxborough pre-sales started simultaneously at 9 AM. But I was advised that Ticketmaster does not like when you are buying tickets for multiple events at the same time. It supposedly guards against things like different browsers on the same device, using one Ticketmaster account login or a singular credit card to make simultaneous purchases. There was no good way to verify this, but I was not going to take any chances. I opened two additional Ticketmaster accounts, I assigned each one a different credit card. I lined up three devices: my personal computer, my work notebook computer, and my work desktop computer. I could use them in conjunction to order tickets for the three shows simultaneously. I never trusted the Ticketmaster iOS app, so I nixed the idea of using my phone.

Finally, there was the Phoenix show. That pre-sale would start at 11 AM, but of course the venue has an agreement with Seat Geek instead of Ticketmaster so that would be a different platform and account altogether. I had never previously bought primary market tickets on Seat Geek, so I had a lot of apprehension about their web site capabilities. But I assumed I would be able to figure it out once the rest of the pre-sales were out of the way and just hope for the best.


I reviewed my plan, checked all my accounts and credit cards, got my PCs ready, copied my pre-sale code to them, then set my alarm for 2:40 AM. I do not recall a previous instance that I was so nervous heading to bed. Maybe it was the day before I bought my first Harley, and I knew that I had to ride it home having never previously operating a motorcycle on a highway.

I did not get much sleep, but I was groggy when the alarm went off. My cats Ozzy and Lemmy gave me a confused look as I stumbled down the hallway to the computers I set up. I followed the links from the band website to the event pages on Ticketmaster France and Ticketmaster Spain. The first thing I noticed was that Ticketmaster France has a much different user interface than the American version. On top of that, despite clicking the “EN” link at the top for English, it didn’t translate everything.

I managed to enter both ticket queues for the Madrid and Paris shows and waited about 15 minutes for my spot to pop up to buy tickets. Madrid was first and I immediately selected two Snake Pit tickets and clicked buy. Bingo, I was allocated two Snake Pit tickets! I began the checkout process, and my username and password weren’t working. Unbeknownst to me, you need a separate Ticketmaster account for each country you want to buy tickets in. I had to begin the process of creating an account quickly enough to secure the Snake Pit tickets.

While this was happening, I was trying to pull Paris tickets on a different computer. But with the different interface and the failed translations, I was having a much harder time figuring out what to do. Everything was in a grid that looked like this:

The Snake Pit column was straightforward, but this didn’t appear to be a simple 2-day pass as advertised. I had no idea which to pick but I tried the link for “Tarif Pack 2” but it came back and said “no more seats in this category”. While I was still trying to check out my Madrid tickets, I had to try to figure out how to drop down to general admission for Paris. I grabbed two tickets for what I thought was general admission, then I also had to create a Ticketmaster France account as a requisite for completing the purchase.

Groggy and as confused as I was, I managed to get Snake Pit for Madrid and two tickets for Paris as well. Off to a good start. I went back to bed.

In the morning, I forwarded the French confirmation e-mail to a friend to ask him if I screwed something up. It turned out that I had, I got seats and not general admission tickets. I guess I confused “Pelouse” with “Carrie Or” when I bought tickets. This was a mistake, but not the end of the world. I would still have a pretty good perspective.

Next up, it was time to buy tickets for East Rutherford, Montreal, and Foxborough at the same time. I checked and my regular Ticketmaster account worked for Montreal, so I was all set with my original three-computer plan. Everything was smooth this time, I was not able to get Snake Pit tickets for any of the shows but was easily able to move down to general admission for all three.

Finally, Phoenix was up next at 11. I checked my Seat Geek account and it said, “there is a problem with your account, please call customer service”. I opened a new account, added a credit card, and got in line for more tickets. I was unfamiliar with their queuing system, but after what seemed like a longer than usual wait, I managed to pull general admission tickets.

With that, I was locked in. No Ticketmaster snafus in any country was going to keep me out. My trusty Metclub Legacy Membership came through for me.


This capped a whirlwind 48-hour stretch. I came out of it with a whole new direction in life. I am going to break up the cycle of only spending my vacation time and weekends on my motorcycle and at the Jersey Shore and throw some big travel plans into the mix, inspired by the greatest band of all time.

I have a lot of preparing I need to do. I need to book flights and accommodations along with sightseeing itineraries. I told my personal trainer that I need to step up the intensity of my workouts. I need my strength and conditioning to be as best as possible for these shows.

This turn of events has inspired me to write. I’m going to keep a journal of events around every trip and every concert and turn it into a Metallica travel blog.

Four countries, six cities, twelve Metallica concerts. When it is done, my lifetime total of Metallica concerts seen will increase from 27 to 39.

The text message I got on Monday, November 28, 2022, wasn’t just a notification for a new Metallica video. It was my existential pivot.

Full speed or nothing.


My M72 World Tour itinerary:

CityCountryVenueDates
ParisFranceStade de FranceMay 17, 19 2023
East RutherfordUSAMetLife StadiumAug 4, 6 2023
MontrealCanadaStade OlympiqueAug 11, 13 2023
PhoenixUSAState Farm StadiumSep 1, 3 2023
MadridSpainEstadio Cívitas MetropolitanoJul 12,14 2024
FoxboroughUSAGilette StadiumAug 2, 4 2024

My lifetime Metallica shows:

DateVenueCity
4/8/1992Brendan Byrne ArenaEast Rutherford, NJ
7/17/1998Giants StadiumEast Rutherford, NJ
11/24/1998Roseland BallroomNew York, NY
11/23/1999Madison Square GardenNew York, NY
7/20/2000Giants StadiumEast Rutherford, NJ
7/8/2003Giants StadiumEast Rutherford, NJ
4/20/2004Nassau ColiseumUniondale, NY
10/22/2004Continental Airlines ArenaEast Rutherford, NJ
1/17/2009Wachovia CenterPhiladelphia, PA
1/31/2009Prudential CenterNewark, NJ
2/1/2009Prudential CenterNewark, NJ
11/14/2009Madison Square GardenNew York, NY
11/15/2009Madison Square GardenNew York, NY
9/14/2011Yankee StadiumNew York, NY
6/23/2012Bader FieldAtlantic City, NJ
6/24/2012Bader FieldAtlantic City, NJ
5/12/2017Lincoln Financial FieldPhiladelphia, PA
5/14/2017MetLife StadiumEast Rutherford, NJ
5/17/2017The New Coliseum Presented by NYCVUniondale, NY
7/19/2017Parc Jean-DrapeauMontreal, QC
10/20/2018Bryce Jordan CenterState College, PA
10/25/2018Wells Fargo CenterPhiladelphia, PA
9/6/2019Chase CenterSan Francisco, CA
9/24/2021Highland Festival Grounds at KY Expo CenterLouisville, KY
9/25/2021Highland Festival Grounds at KY Expo CenterLouisville, KY
5/29/2022Harvard Athletic ComplexBoston, MA
8/11/2022Highmark StadiumBuffalo, NY

Songs I’ve seen performed live:

SongTimes Seen
Enter Sandman25
Nothing Else Matters25
One25
Master of Puppets24
Sad But True24
Seek and Destroy21
For Whom the Bell Tolls19
Creeping Death16
Fade to Black15
Fuel12
Blackened11
Wherever I May Roam11
Battery10
Moth Into Flame9
The Unforgiven9
Ride The Lightning8
The Memory Remains8
Whiplash8
Hardwired7
Now That We’re Dead7
The Day That Never Comes7
Welcome Home (Sanitarium)7
Atlas, Rise!6
Cyanide6
Fight Fire With Fire6
Harvester of Sorrow6
Holier Than Thou6
The Four Horsemen6
All Nightmare Long5
Broken, Beat And Scarred5
Halo On Fire5
No Leaf Clover5
Of Wolf and Man5
That Was Just Your Life5
The End Of The Line5
Breadfan4
Hit The Lights4
Last Caress4
Whiskey In The Jar4
King Nothing3
St. Anger3
The Call of Ktulu3
The God That Failed3
Through the Never3
Turn The Page3
Am I Evil?2
Bleeding Me2
Blitzkrieg2
Die, Die My Darling2
Don’t Tread On Me2
Frantic2
I Disappear2
Last Caress/Green Hell2
Motorbreath2
My Friend Of Misery2
Overkill2
The Outlaw Torn2
The Shortest Straw2
The Struggle Within2
The Thing That Should Not Be2
Trapped Under Ice2
Until It Sleeps2
– Human1
(Anesthesia) – Pulling Teeth1
…And Justice For All1
All Within My Hands1
Confusion1
Damage Inc.1
Devil’s Dance1
Dirty Window1
Disposable Heroes1
Dyers Eve1
Escape1
Hell And Back1
Helpless1
Hero of the Day1
Iron Foundry1
Jump In The Fire1
Justice Medley1
Killing Time1
Last Caress/So What/Die, Die My Darling1
Low Man’s Lyric1
Mastertarium1
Mercyful Fate1
Metal Militia1
My Apocalypse1
No Remorse1
Orion1
Phantom Lord1
Sabbra Cadabra1
Small Hours1
So What1
Spit Out The Bone1
Stone Cold Crazy1
The Ecstasy of Gold1
The Judas Kiss1
The Prince1
The Unforgiven III1
The Wait1